Bambu Lab A1 Combo
FDM: The Versatile Workhorse
- Speed
- 500 mm/s
- Score
- 9.2/10
- Build
- 16.8 L
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FDM vs Resin 3D Printers: The Complete Guide for 2026
- Our pick: the Bambu Lab A1 Combo, 9.2/10.
- Also covered: Mars 5 Ultra (8.2/10).
guide · updated . Specs from the PrintPick catalog, checked 2026-09-29. Scores are PrintPick ratings out of 10.
By Shadman Rahman · Prices checked
The verdict
Buy the A1 Combo. Top score of the 2 here.
Choose FDM if you want versatility, larger prints, stronger parts, simpler workflow, and lower running costs. FDM is the right first printer for 90% of people. Choose Resin if you specifically need fine detail, miniatures, jewelry, dental models, and you're comfortable with the chemical handling and post-processing workflow. Many serious makers eventually own one of each: an FDM printer for functional and large prints, and a resin printer for detail work. A solid combo: Bambu Lab A1 Mini for FDM + Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra for resin covers both technologies. Use our FDM vs Resin quiz at /tools/fdm-vs-resin for a personalized recommendation based on your specific use case.
The 2 printers, by the numbers
Same scale within each chart. Teal is the best of the 2.
| A1 Combo | 9.2/10 (best) | |
|---|---|---|
| Mars 5 Ultra | 8.2/10 |
| A1 Combo | 16.8 L (best) | |
|---|---|---|
| Mars 5 Ultra | 2.7 L |
The first question everyone hits: FDM or resin? One melts plastic filament. The other cures liquid resin with UV light. They look nothing alike in practice, cost differently, and suit different people almost completely. There is no universal right answer. But there is a right answer for your specific use case, and this guide figures out which one that is. If you just want the quick version, use the FDM vs Resin quiz at /tools/fdm-vs-resin. If you want to actually understand the tradeoffs, keep reading.
FDM: The Versatile Workhorse
- Speed
- 500 mm/s
- Score
- 9.2/10
- Build
- 16.8 L
FDM melts plastic filament and builds objects layer by layer. Slice your model, send it to the printer, wait, pull the print off the plate. No chemicals, no post-processing for most jobs. Layer lines are visible at 0.1-0.3mm, which bothers some people and not others. Functional prints don't usually need to look perfect. Build volumes are large: the A1 Combo has a 256mm cube, the K1 Max does 300mm. You can print helmets, armor, and big assemblies as single pieces. Material costs $15-25 per kilogram spool, and most prints use 20-200 grams. That's $0.30-5.00 per typical print. The trade-off vs resin is surface quality: FDM layer lines are visible, especially on curved surfaces under direct light. For functional stuff, it doesn't matter. For anything display-quality, you're either sanding or considering resin instead. About 80% of consumer 3D printing is FDM.
Resin: The Detail Machine
- Speed
- 150 mm/h
- Score
- 8.2/10
- Build
- 2.7 L
Resin cures liquid photopolymer with a UV LCD screen. Layer heights of 0.01-0.05mm are standard, roughly 10x finer than FDM. Nearly invisible layer lines. Surface quality that looks injection-molded. For miniatures, jewelry, and anything where detail matters at close range, resin is in a different category. The Mars 5 Ultra is the entry point I'd recommend. But resin has real trade-offs. After printing, you drain excess resin, wash the part in IPA or water for 5-10 minutes, cure under UV for another 5-10 minutes, then remove supports. You need a wash-and-cure station ($90-150), nitrile gloves every time, good ventilation, and a plan for disposing of waste resin. Uncured resin is a skin irritant and smells. Build volumes are small on most consumer machines: 120-200mm. You're not printing helmets on a resin printer. Resin costs $30-50 per liter, but per-miniature cost is $0.15-0.50 because figures use so little material. About 20% of consumer 3D printing is resin, mostly concentrated in the miniatures and jewelry communities.
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